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Old 12-06-2012, 06:16 PM
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leschowe leschowe is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Louisville, Colorado
Posts: 157
Default NEW Gold Inlay and Undercut, Template Set

Hi Everyone,
I have been working with Steve Lindsay and Mike Dubber to develop a new engraver template set to make a graver to help in the cutting of inlay channels for gold wire. We have worked on this project for quite some time and we are now ready to release the template set. Below is a tutorial that I wrote to describe the new graver. I hope that it explains all of the details of the making and use of the graver. If there are any questions please let me know.

Les

Gold Inlay and Undercut Graver Template


The purpose of this graver is to help the Engraver to cut uniform inlay channels for gold wire (or any precious metal, or copper wire for that matter) and also to undercut the sides of the channel in order to hold the gold wire in place. The Engraver would normally have two gravers in order to prepare a given channel size for inlay, each with a different sized face: one graver, with a larger face size to cut the channel, and a second graver with a much smaller face size to undercut the sides of the channel in order to hold the gold wire.

This graver geometry is also intended to be used to enlarge the lettering which is stamped into firearms (on a Single Action Army this would be on the barrel) in order to inlay gold wire into the lettering. The smaller faced graver is used for this purpose. Please check out the photo of the Single Action Army revolver below to see and example of this type of gold inlay.



A third use of the smaller undercutting graver is to undercut gold inlay channels, which have been cut by a lathe, in the cylinder or barrel of a revolver. This little graver does a wonderful job of undercutting the channel in order to hold the gold.


Making the graver point:

This template set includes 2 templates: A round template which is used to generate an initial conical point, and a second template which is used to cut the face and the heel on the newly created conical point. The size of the face is then determined by how far the face is cut down the conical form. If everything is done properly the face on each graver will be of an oval shape which will simulate an onglette graver. Please note that the Engraver can make whatever size face that he feels is appropriate for the desired channel size (gold wire diameter) and the undercut simply by controlling how far the face is cut.

To start, put the Lindsay sharpening fixture into the round template and then set up a graver blank in the fixture. Work the point of the graver, using the TW Designs Power Diamond Hone. First cut the corners of the graver blank, working the cuts to form a point symmetrically around the graver blank. Note that you are attempting to create a symmetric cone. Once the corners have been cut symmetrically, start working on the flat surfaces of the graver and work them into a symmetrical cone shape. When you are finished with this step, the graver point will be a “faceted” version of a conical shape.

Once the corners and the flats of the graver have been cut as closely as possible to the shape of a cone, the graver can be hand rotated with the cone point against the spinning diamond hone to remove the facets and smooth out the cone shape. The graver blank can also be put into a “Lindsay Quick Change Extension” (purchased separately) , the extension can then chucked up into a hand drill, and the cone of the graver point turned against the power hone using the rotating motion of the drill to make a perfect cone. Before chucking the graver up in a hand drill, it is recommended that a black sharpie be used to color the faceted cone in order to help see exactly where cone is being cut.

Note: if the Quick Change Extension is used in this manner, both screws need to be used in the extension to hold the graver blank. The screw on the corner of the blank is to be tightened while the screw on the flat side of the blank is just snugged up to hold the graver blank in place. Tightening the screw on the corner – not the flat side - ensures that the graver is centered in the extension.

With the cone shape cut on the point of the graver, the Lindsay Sharpening Fixture and graver must be moved to the second template – recheck the length of the extension of the graver point from the fixture. The face can now cut using Steve’s diamond stones. First cut the face to the desired size. Second, very gently cut a rounded heel on the graver point. It is recommended that a ceramic stone be used for cutting the rounded heel. Only 2 or 3 passes over a ceramic stone is all that is needed, hand turning the graver point with each pass.





Using The Gold Inlay and Undercut Graver:

1) Cut a line with the Lindsay “Universal Point” to define where the gold inlay channel is to be.
2) Follow the cut line with the larger Gold Inlay Graver. Keep cutting over the line until the inlay channel is cut to the appropriate depth.
3) Use the smaller Gold Inlay Graver to undercut the sides of the channel.
4) Use the “Roland Baptiste Chisel” graver made by Steve Lindsay to freshen up the undercut. Not too much because you do not want to rise up the edge of the steel channel.
5) Hammer in the gold wire.
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