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  #1  
Old 03-26-2009, 11:16 AM
SEDEKER33 SEDEKER33 is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2007
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Default The Classic for channel and pave setting?

Hi all,
my job is diamond setting.
After all the research that i have donne on the internet.I think i will go for the classic.But before that I got some minor questions left to be cleared in my head.

*Do i need the tungestan piston for setting pave and channel.I mainly set on 18karat gold.
*doese the Dualregulator have knobs on it to controle the speed and trotle,can I use normal oxygen tank regulators instead of the Dual Regulators offerd by Steve.(my budget is limited,i am trying to find a way around).

I live in the middle east once i purchase the product it will be difficult for me to return it back.and it will be easeyer to pass the product through the customs if it doese not have regulators.

any suggestions will be greatly appriciated.

sorry for any typing mistakes english is my second language.

Best Regards
Mike Maksoudian
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  #2  
Old 03-26-2009, 11:25 AM
airamp airamp is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Scottsdale, Az.
Posts: 683
Default Re: The Classic for channel and pave setting?

Hi Mike,

You most likely will not need the tungestan piston for setting in 18Kt.

Yes you can use the O2 regulator for the classic but you will need the non regulator foot pedal set up to set the idel of the classic but no regulator.

Don't worry too much about sending it back. Once you get one it will not break down or need repair since it is the best made tool you can buy and has a 3 year warrentee..

You just cannot go wrong with a classic.

AirAmp
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  #3  
Old 03-26-2009, 04:19 PM
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Steve Ellsworth Steve Ellsworth is offline
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Location: Highlands Ranch Colorado
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Default Re: The Classic for channel and pave setting?

Andy DeMarco her e in Denver has one of Steve's first classics - like #2 or #3. Still running , never been in the shop. Sets Pave all day long with it. Closer than you would believe possible,

Mine has been bashing stuff for around 7 years. Dropped 20-30 time on the concrete and it is still running perfectly.

Can't see how you could go wrong.

No, you wont need the heavy piston, but if you think you might do something else as time progresses you may as well order one.
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  #4  
Old 03-31-2009, 05:17 PM
pwr pwr is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 6
Default Re: The Classic for channel and pave setting?

I do much the same. However, I do find the heavier piston useful for one aspect of what I do, and that is driving millgrain tools. The line my employer manufactures often has millgrain applied to sometimes rather blunt/heavy edges, and it's a larger size tool (#8), in 18K white gold. That takes a surprising amount of force, in part because the handpiece is pushing in line with the tool shank, while the force needed to drive into the metal is at an angle to that, so much of the hammer force is wasted, unlike with a graver. I could do it with the standard piston, but the carbide one makes it a breeze, and I seldom need to swap out for the original lighter one. By the way, a useful hint if you wish to do millgraining this way. Driving a millgrain tool with a power handpiece is rather more force than the manufacturers of the millgrain tools had in mind, I think. The little axles that the millgrain wheels spin on are mild steel, and they quickly fail/shear when used this way. My fix, so I don't have to keep replacing the tools, is to lightly sand away a bit of the sides of the tip, which not only allows the wheel to get into tighter areas, but removes the peened over ends of those axle pins. So then I can drive them right out. I replace them with a bit of the appropriate size (I think it's a #72, but I'm not sure at the moment) high speed drill bit shank. That, of course, can't be peened over. But we've got a laser welder, so I use that to secure the ends of that new more durable axle to the shank of the tool. Modified this way, these things now only wear out when the wheel itself gets too mucked up over time. If you don't have a laser, a PUK welder would do it too, or you might have to get creative. Don't solder it, I think, unless you can figure a way not only to not freeze up the wheel with solder, but to not mess up the temper of that little wheel. Possible, no doubt, but a pain in the backside. Anyway, hope that helps.
PWR
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  #5  
Old 03-31-2009, 05:58 PM
aramis gulbeyan sr aramis gulbeyan sr is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: fort Thomas KY
Posts: 4
Default Re: The Classic for channel and pave setting?

hey there iam setter for 30years best seting tool is swiss hammer for fordom motor air tools are fine for ligth type work .swiss hammer is best for channel setting
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  #6  
Old 03-31-2009, 06:02 PM
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Daniel Houwer Daniel Houwer is offline
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Location: Haarlem, Holland
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Default Re: The Classic for channel and pave setting?

Hi Mike,

I would surely go for the tungsten piston as well. If you have to hammer in bezel settings or heavy channels the Lindsay makes a nice hammer tool with the tungsten piston and the foot control. I do have a Badeco Hammer piece wich works on my flexyshaft and that one is more powerfull but doesn't engrave.
The regulators are perfectly matched for the Lindsay airgravers but I am sure that other ones would do if you can get the connection right.

I had the same questions about a year ago. The answers given too me from the experts where, Go For It, You Wont Regret It!!! And until this day I have only one regret. I should have ordered it long ago!!
If you want to know,
http://www.handengravingforum.com/showthread.php?t=1375

Good luck with your choice!

Daniel
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