Phil Coggan [Archive] - Engraving Forum.com - The Internet's Largest and Fastest Growing Engraving Community

Phil Coggan

04-02-2008, 02:25 AM

Hi Phil

My first book about engraving was James Meek’s “The Art of Engraving” and that got me hooked.

The second book was “British Gun Engraving” It was seeing your exquisite work and that of the Brown Brothers and Ken Hunt and all the others that really opened my eyes as to how high a standard and artistic levels that engraving could go to. It’s still my main reference book to this day

Hi Andrew,
It was more or less the same for me, but I was interested in flintlock guns, at that time I could'nt afford to buy them so I tought myself to make them.
Knowing nothing about engraving I experimented with different tools I had made until I found one that would cut! ( Not many books about then. )
After a while my interest focused more on engraving, it was a lot easier than making the guns, you see I did'nt have access to milling machines etc, So it was all hacksaw and files!
It was'nt until I saw one of Mario Abbiatico's first books 'Modern Firearm Engraving'.
that I realalized what engraving was all about. The next problem was, how does one produce 'black' and 'grey' as in the photos? Anyway without boring you too much I practiced and practiced and finally sent some plates to Mario, he liked them and included them and some other work of mine in his next book 'L'incisione delle Armi Sportive'. You'll see a very young PC in there, and note the vice, an ordinary engineers one! My engraving studio....my kids bedroom!
Phil

Andrew Biggs

04-02-2008, 04:06 AM

Ahh….The kids bedroom!!! Yip I’m the same……… but ours did the courtesy of leaving home first. The bedroom is now the workroom!!!! As for flintlocks, well, I made my own 50 cal one as well. It weighs a ton, isn’t particularly accurate, but I still shoot it just for fun. It was a lot of fun making it but a lot of work!!!

I read that your son Simon engraved as well…is he still engraving as a career?

As I write this I’m watching on TV the Queens thanksgiving tribute to Sir Edmund Hillary in London and his laying up of his Knight of the Garter banner. A very nice gesture for the Queen to honour one of New Zealand’s greatest sons.

Cheers
Andrew

Roger Bleile

04-02-2008, 08:25 AM

You'll see a very young PC in there, and note the vice, an ordinary engineers one! My engraving studio....my kids bedroom!
Phil

I'm Looking at your picture in the book now and it is the first time I noticed the rabbits, mice and puppies on the wallpaper!

Like you, I started out on an ordinary bench vise but at least mine could swivel at the base. The one you are using in the picture looks completely stationary. Did you move that whole wooden block it is mounted on or did you have to move around the vise?

If you still have those plates from 1982 I'm sure people here would like to see them, they are beautiful and done without microscope, air assist or ball vice!

Roger

Phil Coggan

04-02-2008, 08:59 AM

Like you, I started out on an ordinary bench vise but at least mine could swivel at the base. The one you are using in the picture looks completely stationary. Did you move that whole wooden block it is mounted on or did you have to move around the vise?

If you still have those plates from 1982 I'm sure people here would like to see them, they are beautiful and done without microscope, air assist or ball vice!

Roger
Hi Roger,
The vice was the only one I had, and yes I had to walk around it!
The plates were sent to Mario and are still over there in Italy.
As for a microscope, I don't use one, just a 10X loop and 4X magnifying glasses. I also don't use air assist, but I do have a ball vice!!!

Phil

jlseymour

04-02-2008, 10:52 AM

Welcome Phil, Great looking scratching on guns...
Look foward to learning and seeing more..
Jerry

Phil Coggan

04-02-2008, 12:59 PM

I read that your son Simon engraved as well…is he still engraving as a career?
Andrew

Simon is still engraving, mainly for Purdey, H&H and Greener. He's doing very well.
Last year he finished off six Purdeys for Eric Clapton and another pair for Ron Dennis ( MacLarren F1 )

He works with me in my studio but has his own work.
His photo's below.

Phil

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/PurdeyS2.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/PurdeyS1.jpg

Andrew Biggs

04-02-2008, 02:21 PM

Hi Phil
Well, the apple dosn't fall far from the tree. That's stunning work by Simon.

When I was in Reno at the FEGA (Firearms Engravers Guild of America) convention there was a really interesting family that I talked to. The Father was a 3rd generation stock/gunmaker and his daughter engraved the guns. They both worked out of the same workshop/studio as well. A family affair!!!

Cheers
Andrew

JJ Roberts

04-02-2008, 04:09 PM

Phil,
Welcome aboard..awesome work..who could forget the gold leopard..ready to leap..workmanship fit for a king. I would like to see a picture of your pedestal
walkabout vise. Keep up the good work.

Yours truly,
JJ Roberts
Manassas, VA

NevadaBlue

04-02-2008, 07:21 PM

scratching... SCRATCHING? What beautiful work. The possibility of being able to do some acceptable scratching on guns is what brought me here. Your work is quite impressive scratching. I hope some day I can do a tiny fraction of that quality. Thanks for joining us and welcome! :)

Phil Coggan

04-03-2008, 01:34 AM

Thank again everyone, I was'nt expecting this!

Andrew, Simon has had a big advantage with having someone say to him, ok, this is the tool you use, this is the way to sharpen it and this is the way you use it, having said that he spent a lot of time and effort and hard work to get where he is today, he often suprises my with things he comes up with.
I have pictures of my studio and of other work that i've done in the past which I could post....but what I don't want to do is bore everyone!!!

Phil

Sam Welch

04-03-2008, 06:34 AM

Phil, gun engravers, in my experience, don't get bored. Life is too interesting for that. The more of you magnificent work we can see the better...and that goes I am sure for your shop. I have long admired your work. You may be able to tell from my name that my family came from Wales, about 1750 I am told. Regards, Sam.

Steve Lindsay

04-03-2008, 08:21 AM

Hi Phil, :waving:
Thank you again for posting and letting us see the photos of your work. You were talking about studios in bedrooms earlier in the thread. I was doing the same when I started. I had a single bedroom appartment and in the corner of the bedroom was the engraving bench. I do my best work in the bedroom. My wife Karla will kick me if she saw I wrote that sentence. Today is her birthday and so I better be extra good to her today. We are going out for lunch later for a small birthday party.

Phil, no way would any of us be bored to see pictures of your studio and more engravings.:photo:
Thanks again, Steve

Phil Coggan

04-03-2008, 09:34 AM

Sam,
I thought I detected a bit of Welsh accent there, whereabouts in Wales?
Steve,
I have some pictures of my studio and a few more of my 'scratchings' i'll post them later, it's been a nice sunny day here and i've just come back from a ride in the car, so there's only been about three hours work done today, gonna spend another half hour or so to finish off a pistol cap.

Phil

Roger Bleile

04-03-2008, 09:42 AM

i've just come back from a ride in the car Phil
Phil,

I've heard that petrol in the UK is equivalent to about $9.50USD per gallon! I'm surprised anyone takes a drive at those rates. At $3.25 per gallon, we are pulling our hair out over here!

Roger

Sam Welch

04-03-2008, 12:03 PM

Roger, I was curious about that also. Either it is an old car fun to drive or Phil has a masochistic streak we have yet to learn about.

Phil, I have no idea what part of Wales my 4th great grandfather came from. I sure would like to know. Maybe someday I will come see Wales, but I for one will not hold my breath.

Again, it is great to see you on this forum. Sam

Phil Coggan

04-03-2008, 01:07 PM

Hi Again,
Some pics again, this time there are some real old ones, two guns from the 'African Hunter Series' these go back to the 80's, i've just finished the latest, it's based on Theodore Roosevelt, I can't submit the pics because there's going to be lots on it in the shooting mags, later this year.
One of H&H's '20's pair, the portrait is taken off a Vouge front cover (1920's) I super-imposed the face of the lady that ordered the pair onto the models picture.
Oh, by the way that's me and Simon :lol:
If there's anything you would like to know about the pics/engraving etc. i'll try my best to answer your questions.
By the way if you click on the pics they should open in Putfile where you can enlarge them, although some of them are scanned so the quality is not too good!

Phil

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/4/9314483138.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7931656)
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/4/9314273641.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7931486)
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/4/9314273684.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7931485)
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/4/9314273638.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7931483)
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/4/9314273613.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7931482)
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/4/9314273516.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7931481)
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/4/9313560218.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7931179)
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/4/9313533446.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7931178)
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/4/9313533477.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7931177)

Danny C

04-03-2008, 03:35 PM

Your work is really impressive - you definetly belong here on this forum.
What graver system are you using? Does your son use the same, or both by hand?

Gravy

04-03-2008, 09:36 PM

Hi Again,
Some pics again, this time there are some real old ones, two guns from the 'African Hunter Series' these go back to the 80's, i've just finished the latest, it's based on Theodore Roosevelt, I can't submit the pics because there's going to be lots on it in the shooting mags, later this year.
One of H&H's '20's pair, the portrait is taken off a Vouge front cover (1920's) I super-imposed the face of the lady that ordered the pair onto the models picture.
Oh, by the way that's me and Simon :lol:
If there's anything you would like to know about the pics/engraving etc. i'll try my best to answer your questions.
By the way if you click on the pics they should open in Putfile where you can enlarge them, although some of them are scanned so the quality is not too good!

Phil

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/4/9314483138.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7931656)

Beautiful work, but I can't quite make out the engraving on the LH shooter's gun; is that a self portrait grinning out at everyone? :p

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/4/9313560218.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7931179)

I really like your workshop with all that natural light. That's a very fancy looking turned base to your vice. Burr elm? I'm sure that's another customisable knick-nack that many scratchers would like to add to their tool kit.

Phil Coggan

04-04-2008, 12:48 AM

My vice was made for me by a friend, the base is oak, it took a few week to get properly bedded in. It's a little heavier than Simons Brownell vice.

My workshop as you can see is in my loft, it's about 30' x 12', nice and airy, it does make a difference having somewhere comfortable to work!

Danny, my graver system consists of a couple of hammers and a handfull of chisels, i'm afraid i'm 'old school'.

Phil

Phil Coggan

04-04-2008, 04:54 AM

I'm thinking of putting together,
" HOW TO CREATE GAME SCENES USING PHOTOSHOP etc ".
This would include, scanning in gun outline, importing and editing bird/animal pictures, scale-ing them down and positioning them etc.

What do forum members think of this idea?

Phil

Joe Cera

04-04-2008, 05:07 AM

Very Nice work Mr Coggan,
I would say that is a great Idea.
Joe Cera

Tom McArdle

04-04-2008, 05:30 AM

It is a great idea. I have done some of that in my limited opportunities to do game scenes. I Would love to see how you do it.

take care,

Tom

Sam Welch

04-04-2008, 05:49 AM

Phil, I am sure we would all love to see your ideas and methods. And Adobe would probably like the increase in sales of photoshop. I eagerly await that post. Sam

Tim Wells

04-04-2008, 07:06 AM

You mean you haven't started making the presentation yet???:lurk5:

This couldn't come at a better time, I'm trying to figure a way to do this myself with Corel. I had better get photoshop I guess. Thank you in advance.

Phil Coggan

04-04-2008, 07:19 AM

This couldn't come at a better time, I'm trying to figure a way to do this myself with Corel. I had better get photoshop I guess. Thank you in advance.
I don't know Corel, but I assume it has layers?

Phil

Barry Lee Hands

04-04-2008, 08:11 AM

I would be really interested in seeing that Phil.

Phil Coggan

04-04-2008, 08:38 AM

: Ok, i'll try and get something together over the weekend.
By the way Barry, it's nice to speek with you again.......Barry came to see me last year, I don't think he had anywhere else to go that day.:lol:

Vanknife

04-04-2008, 11:46 AM

Good day Phil,
That would be very generous of you and i am sure it will be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Cheers

"VAN"

Phil Coggan

04-05-2008, 08:14 AM

I've had a few messages saying that my pictures on page one were'nt enlarging properly in Putfile so i've reloaded them.

Phil

Steve Lindsay

04-05-2008, 11:02 AM

Phil, The pics are very nice and clear now. Super! Thanks for making them show larger.
I am quoting your earlier post with these pictures so they will show in this post too. :cheers2:
Steve

Thanks everyone for the nice welcome and kind comments.
Tom invited me to post some pictures, so here they are, I hope you like them!

Phil
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/n.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/Purdey2.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/Purdey3.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/Purdey4.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/Pistolcapcopy.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics//NelsonLeft.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/20sHHbottom.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/20srtedited.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/Purdey.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/Purdey1.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics//Philcog/2.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/Copy%20of%203.jpg

Phil Coggan

04-06-2008, 12:27 AM

CREATING A GAME SCENE USING PHOTOSHOP.
I'm going to try to show how I create a gamescene, it is not a magical 'quick fix' that automatically conjures up a fantastic scene!
What I hope it will do is show engravers that are having some problems arranging birds etc. onto a lockplate.
I'm using a step by step approach, this may be a bit boring for seasoned PS users, but bare with me it's aimed at those not familier with this program.

What has to be remembered in PS is that the layers are like pages of a book, ie. No. 1 layer lays on top of No. 2 and so on, also, a layer cannot be worked on unless it is selected, ie. Blue.

First, scan in the bird / animal picture that you want to use, the one i'm using is for demonstration only.
Next, draw around the lockplate using tracing film, and scan into 'My Pictures'.

Open Photoshop, and check that the tools are on the left and Layers and Paths are on the right, if thier not visible click Window > Layers / Paths.
Double click on the grey background, this should open My Pictures. Double click on the 'Plate' image to import it.
In the Layers box grab the Background layer and drag it to the New Layer icon next to the Bin. This will create a new layer, unclick the eye of the locked layer.
Clean up the plate image by, ( Top tool bar ) Image > Adjustments > Brightness / Contrast.
Drag the Brightness slider to about + 20 and the Contrast to about + 40 > OK. ( Makesure 'Preview is ticked.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/No1.jpg
IMPORT THE BIRDS.
Double click on the grey background. Double click on the Birds image in My Pictures, this should open it in PS.
Enlarge the box as before and select the Magnifying Glass in the 'Tools' on the left. Hold and click the + curser over the bird that you want to use to enlarge, in this case the bottom left one.
Drag the Background Layer as before to create a New layer and untick the Eye of the locked layer.
Click the 'Create New Layer' icon, next to the Bin, this will open an empty layer. Drag this Layer 1 to the Background Layer. You should now see Background copy on top, Layer 1 under it, with the two eyes showing.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/2-1.jpg
CUTTING THE BIRD OUT.
In the Paths box click 'Create New Path', the icon next to the Bin.
In the Tools Box ( left side) right click and hold on the 'Pen' > Pen Tool.
(There's a more accurate way to do this next bit but i'll simplify it.)
Click to add nodes around the outline of the bird, join up with the first one. you should now have a continuous line around the bird.
In the Paths box the 'Load Path as a Selection' (The third icon from the left) This will make marching ants around the bird.
Top tool box > Select > Inverse.
In the Layers box select Background Copy ( Make it Blue ) Edit > Cut.
File > Save As > Save.
Shut down picture,( RED X )
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/No3.jpg
IMPORT THE BIRDS ONTO PLATE.
Double click the grey background and import one of the birds.
Select the'Crop Tool' ( Left Tool Box, third down on left. ) Hold the cursor on the top left corner of bird and drag to make a square. Drag the square nodes on the side of this box until the box fits snuggly around the bird. Double click in the centre of the bird.
Image > Image Size. Set width to 0.4 inch > OK.
'Move Tool' ( Left tool box, top right.) Click on bird drag and drop it over the plate.
Repeat the above until all the birds are on the plate.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/No5.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/No6.jpg
ARRANGE AND SIZE.
If you now click the eyes off on the layers one by one you'll see the birds disappear, it's a good idea to double click on the Background Layer name and give the birds names so that you know what is where.
I'm going to move and resize my No 2 bird, so I click the eyes off on the other two. Don't forget YOU CAN'T WORK ON A LAYER UNLESS IT'S SELECTED AND BLUE!
It's a bit too big so.....Edit > Transform > Scale. Holding down Shift and dragging any of the corners will scale up / down uniformly. Ok, i've reduced it, now i'm going to rotate it a little, Edit > Transform > Rotate. Grab any of the corners and rotate. Double click in the centre to apply.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/No7.jpg
I'm going to do this with the other two birds and then position them where I think they will look good. To do this, click to show all of the eyes, select the 'Move' tool and move one bird at a time by selecting the corresponding Layers.
If the birds lack definition, one at a time click, Image > Adjustments > Autolevels. and then, Filter > Sharpen > Unsharp mask.
Tick Preview, set Radius to 1.9 and slide the Amount until the bird looks ok, but don't overdo this one.
This is where I usually stop, print it off and draw a background scene in from imagination.....But, if you've no imagination, :lol: Try this.

BACKGROUND SCENE.
Import the scene as before, drag it into the picture with the 'Move' Tool, Drag Layer 1 to just above 'Background Copy' and name it 'Scene'
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/No8.jpg
Edit > Transform > Scale. This time drag the side of it to fit, use the 'Move' tool to realign, etc.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/Philcog/No9.jpg
Select 'Scene' in Layers, click Opacity and move slider to about 47%, now there are better ways to do the next bit but this is easy to explain.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/No10.jpg
Select the Erasor Tool,( Sixth one down on the left hand side) At the top tool bar select round brush at about 17 %, Opacity 100 %, then carefully erase the parts of the scene that are not needed.
Finaly slide the Layer Opacity back to 100 %
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/No11.jpg
If you want to see it in greyscale.
Image > Mode > Greyscale > Merge.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/Philcog/12.jpg
If you just want a working drawing, ie. the birds without feathers and shading, just trace around the birds from the print, scan and import, then follow the sizing instructions as above.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/13.jpg
This might seem like a lot of work to some but once you get the hang of it, it becomes second nature and saves a lot of time.
I think that's about it, i've checked most of this but if there's something i've missed I expect someone will tell me.

Phil

pilkguns

04-06-2008, 06:39 AM

great information Phil, thanks for doing this.

joe seeley

04-06-2008, 06:52 AM

Phil,
this is great information for us that are learning. thank you very much. I also enjoy all of the pictures, it is great to be able to study the work of masters so that I have something to work toward, and learn from.
thanks again, joe

Vanknife

04-06-2008, 07:15 AM

Good day Phil,
Thanks, This is a real eye opener much appreciated.

Cheers
"VAN"

Barry Lee Hands

04-06-2008, 07:49 AM

That is a fantastic job of showing us how do do a proper layout.
It is very nice to speak with you again also.
And I am grateful to you for allowing me to visit your workshop last year.
I enjoyed meeting your family and seeing how Artists at the top of their field in England go about the daily work.
Thank you very much for this marvelous contributionto the forum.

pappy

04-06-2008, 09:54 AM

Phil, If I ever win i couple million bucks you can do a H&H .700 for me!!!
The first side lever gun is just amazing-it looks like it was made for a king or sultan or something. Your tutorial on photoshop was amazing too! I use it to touch up some old photos and people that I fixed them for were amazed, and I am pretty good at it, but you just showed me a whole new use for it. I am just a begginner, I can cut ok but my art work stinks. It is a lot easier to do it your way than to cut out little pictures and moving around behind tracing paper. Thanks so much!
pappy

Phil Coggan

04-06-2008, 12:06 PM

Thanks everone, just trying to make life a little easier! :lol:
Pappy, that gun side lever gun (top picture) is for sale in a shop in the USA, Brand new! I saw it on the net.
Or would you rather wait for your .700! :lol:

Pappy said.
"It is a lot easier to do it your way than to cut out little pictures and moving around behind tracing paper". Thanks so much!

I used to reduce by way of a grid, it would take about fifteen to twenty minutes to do a bird, only to find it's too large or too small, and then i'd have to start all over!

Phil

Gravy

04-06-2008, 05:04 PM

Thanks Phil for your insightful description of your technique! :cheers2:

Phil Coggan

04-07-2008, 04:15 AM

Christiaan

04-07-2008, 11:36 AM

WOW!! This just open my mind into new dimensions. :whoo:

Phil Coggan

04-08-2008, 12:54 PM

Someone asked me a few days ago "Who polishes and laquers your guns after hardening"?
Well I do, and have since the early eighties, the reason.......back about that time, in a period of about two years I had more than ten guns over polished after hardening. About seven guns had to be annealled, re-engraved and then re- hardened. About 30% to 50% of the game scenes / portraiture had been wiped off. This was done by one man in the factory.
Since then I don't take any chances, the guns come back to me, I polish them, ink them if they need it and laquer them.

There was also a time when there was some bad steel about, impurities caused holes to blow out in the plates, this was a nightmare especially in the middle of a game scene.
Sometimes a hole of about .3mm. on the surface opened out to about ten times that size below. Also flaking metal was possible.

I have also had problems with raised and flush gold guns. Clamping a raised gold gun in between lead jaws is not good enough, i've had raised gold border lines and scroll come back flat. I always use a thick leather.

When a gun goes back to the factory after engraving it's worked on by as many as half a dozen people, some are more cautious than others, it only takes one person to put a gold gun down on a bench full of tools or shavings!

Another reason I finish the gold work after hardening is that sometimes the gold engraving comes back lacking definition, a little worn looking.
I think the reason for this is that the heat process gets rid of those microscopic burs around the cuts and cuts down on the vitality and freshness that it once had.

I hope this has been of some interest.

Phil

Tim Wells

04-08-2008, 07:37 PM

That is the very kind of thing I like to read. What engravers do as a rule and why. Makes perfect sense to me. I cringe to think of all those guns you had to re-engrave.:banghead:

Andrew Biggs

04-09-2008, 01:50 AM

Hi Phil

Over 10 guns returned and need re-engraved............That would make your eyes water a bit.

When you say "polishing after hardening"...what exactley do you mean? and how do you polish?

Cheers
Andrew

Phil Coggan

04-09-2008, 05:08 AM

Andrew,
Ten guns re-engraved is a very expensive mistake!

When the guns come back after colour or cyanide hardening they might need to be 'Coin finished' in the case of a game scene gun unless the colours are polished off, the game scene is very hard to see.

A carved gun usually looks better partially polished, leaving some of the colours in the deep parts, this usually gives the carving more of a 3D appearence.

I use an abrasive rubber, it's sold with different 'grits'.
A pencil rubber is also very good for cleaning up gold and steel engraving.

Phil

ron

04-09-2008, 07:37 PM

hi Phil , i want to thank you very much for joining this forum and for all of the info you are given us , i have been an admire of your work for many years , and do study your gold work , my question is i have never used rose gold , how hard is it to inlay and how do you do it . thanks ron p

Phil Coggan

04-10-2008, 01:01 AM

Hi Ron,
Red gold is very hard, it does tend to be a little softer the more copper content it has, but the more copper the pinkier it is.

It is inlayed as you would a piece of sheet except it relies on the undercut only to hold it in, if the bass is crosshatched as with say yellow gold, the red will just squash this down.

So, cut out say a flower, cut the same shape out in the steel, make sure the gold fits in snuggly, undercut the edges, tap around the edge of the gold with a steel punch, make sure the gold spreads into the undercut. If the gold is too thin, (this is for flush gold) after dressing down with wetordry it will 'spring' in the middle, so always make it a little thicker than you would with yellow.

Don't forget to anneal it before you start, heat it to red and dunk it in water.

Hope this helps.

Phil

ron

04-10-2008, 06:31 AM

hi Phil .. thanks you very much for all of that info , i will give it a try .. i do a lot of gold inlays on colts , in fact 90 % of my work is on colt saa and they get a lot of gold in the leafs and spines .. the 2 lions and eleph. are they sculptured gold . thanks again and keep posting .. ron p

Phil Coggan

04-10-2008, 06:48 AM

Ron,
I have a colt collection. When the laws changed in the UK regarding pistols I had to hand in my saa 'Frontier' which had Birmingham (UK) proof marks,1910, and also a brand new saa that I bought to engrave and sell.

The lions and ele. scenes are indeed carved gold.

Phil

ron

04-10-2008, 10:17 AM

hi phil .. thanks for your reply ..i am sorry to hear about your colts what a big loss of history. i do hope you will recover them some day .. ron p

Phil Coggan

04-10-2008, 12:41 PM

We were told that ALL 'Illegal' pistols were to be melted down!
But the good thing is, we were compensated for them.

Phil

Tim Wells

04-10-2008, 02:58 PM

Makes me shake my head and want to cry...just a damn shame. I hope they change that law someday soon for you folks.

Phil Coggan

04-11-2008, 01:08 AM

Makes me shake my head and want to cry...just a damn shame. I hope they change that law someday soon for you folks.
I can't see it happening, this was all political, the only people to lose out by this were the legal and responsible gun owners, gun crime has not gone down, in fact there are more illegal firearms out there than ever!

Phil

Richard Parker

04-11-2008, 02:36 AM

Phil
I'm a new boy on the site, nice to see your photos, great stuff and an inspiration

Regards

Richard

Phil Coggan

04-11-2008, 06:29 AM

Thanks Richard.

Talking of pistols, this is one I did in 1985.
Peter Blaine who at that time worked for H&H came up with the idea of covering a pistol in dollar bills, as if they were stuck to it.

Phil

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/Datonics.jpg

charles starks

04-11-2008, 07:36 AM

thats just unreal .
fantstic work .simply fantastic

Tom McArdle

04-11-2008, 07:42 AM

Wow Phil, that is stunning.
:eek: :hurray:

A great concept, and exquisite execution. In some ways, that may be the most impressive of your impressive works.

:whoo:

Wow again.

Tom

Phil Coggan

04-11-2008, 12:55 PM

I've just finished this one, it's on the other forum, but here it is for members of this one, hope you like.

Phil
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/TR.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/Portrait1.jpg

jacques herbst

04-11-2008, 02:29 PM

THATS THE BEST PORTRAIT I HAVE SEEN COMING OF THE FORUM.SO REALISTIC,NOT TO TRY AND TAKE SOMETHING AWAY FROM THE ELEPHANT.THIS IS RELAY NICE PHIL.:cheers2:

kcrutcher

04-11-2008, 06:30 PM

Phil

I am embarrassed.

I was the first to welcome you to the forum.

At that time I did not know you from Adam (I do now).

I stated you would find many members to help you If needed.

Sir It is very evident you do not need any help.

Your engravings are not beautiful, They are fantastically Beautiful.

I have never seen such incredible work.

Then for you to take the time to do the tutorial on Creating A Game Scene is more than anyone could expect.

Just exactly what I needed.

Please accept my sincerest apology.

Kenneth Crutcher.

Sam Welch

04-11-2008, 06:44 PM

That is just amazing work Phil! Thank you for posting. Sam

Phil Coggan

04-12-2008, 12:32 AM

Thanks all, once again, and Kenneth, no apology needed.

Phil

Vanknife

04-12-2008, 05:29 AM

Phil it is absolutely stunning and almost to good to be true.

Thanks

"VAN"

Gene Tru

04-12-2008, 11:46 AM

Dave London

04-12-2008, 08:27 PM

Dang Phil
Just fantastic, last saw that guy at Mount Rushmore:cheers2:

Phil Coggan

04-14-2008, 02:09 AM

Phil, your work is truely incredible!! The fact that you do all your work with just hammer and chisel and with no microscope makes it even more so. I love it! You mentioned you use a 10X loupe, any suggestions where I might try ordering one from? I use a 3X loupe but would love to have more magnification without going to a scope ($$$). Thanks for showing and sharing your really nice work.

Gene
Gene,
I use a 10x hand loupe, they're easily available on the net, also jeweller supplies and some good model shops. Make sure you get glass and not plastic lenses.
You say you use a 3x, i'm guessing it's an eye loupe, and if you don't mind me saying, practically useless for fine portrait and game scenes.
The focal distance of a 10x is about one inch so as you can see it's a totally different way of engraving, if you can get used to this it will benifit your work tremendously!

Good luck.

Phil

Tim Wells

04-14-2008, 06:03 AM

Phil,
I've seen photos of Italian and other engravers using the 10X loupes. What is the diameter of yours, is it one of those half inch jobs that fold into itself like a pocket knife or is it larger?

The reason I ask is that I wonder, should one try to learn that method would a larger diameter glass of that same 10 power be an advantage with the greater field of view, or stick with those small diameter versions?

The only thing I have used a 10X loupe pinched into my eye for is doing hairspring work on a ladies wrist watch... And that's with my nose rubbing the bench while fiddling with the spring with a tweezer in each hand right next to my face. Must look ridiculous to someone standing behind me...

Phil Coggan

04-14-2008, 06:44 AM

Tim,
My loupe lense is about 3/4 of an inch in diameter, Simon uses the fold type but mine has a rod attached to it.
A larger glass would probably get in the way, there's not much room when your that close to the job. The area you will be working is small so there's no need to see the whole scene.
There's lots of photos about of engravers using these.

Phil

Tim Wells

04-14-2008, 12:15 PM

That makes sense, I didn't think of the edge of a larger glass getting in the way of the burin. Duhh:yesnod:

Phil Coggan

04-15-2008, 03:01 AM

Ok, my turn to ask a question.
I've been inlaying gold now for a looooong time but i've never got into refining it and mixing colours, is there anyone here doing this?

Phil

Daniel Houwer

04-15-2008, 04:22 AM

Hello Phil,

Refining gold involve's a lot of chemicals with cianide as most lethal one.
I do know a goldsmith how refine's his own filings and scrap metal but he get's a lot of filing and buy's scrap gold. So every tme whenn he has about a kilo or more he spends three day'w refining it. It is a poisonous event I prefer to leave to specialist's. I believe there are some movie's on Utube on the subject.

Making the alloys is easyer. Oppi Untracht's book on concept's and technologie has a lot of different recipie's for coloured alloy's.
Pure gold and the standard coulour's we can get here in Holland but green gold (14 or 18kt is gold with only silver as mix metal giving the yellow gold a greenish heu) we have to make ourselve's.
White gold can be a bit tricky because when done wrong you wil end up with a very brittle unworkable piece of metal.
My employer is a bit of a Scrooge and he has me alloying gold coins down to 18kt yellow. So their's an option to.

But even though it's fun to do it take's some experience and doing it regularly for good result's. (but that count's for everything)
Allso best done in somewhat larger quantity's. I prefer 30 to 100 gram's when using an open flame. The smaller the weight the better your scale's have to be and harder to remake the exact same colour.

Hope this help's a bit.

Daniel

Phil Coggan

04-15-2008, 04:41 AM

Good info Daniel,
A friend of mine in Sorrento mixes his own gold, he uses some sort of gas unit with a crucible on top, he did explain to me once how he did it, but his english is not too good and it was a few years ago.

Phil

Bill Brockway

04-15-2008, 02:27 PM

Phil - It's not exactly what you asked for, but there is a very good tutorial on Sam's bulletin board about melting down scrap gold and making it into wire.

Bill

Steve Lindsay

04-15-2008, 02:39 PM

The goldsmith forum (http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/orchid.htm) and site Ganoksin (http://www.ganoksin.com) has information about alloying gold. Here is a link to the article http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/granulation-gold.htm

Phil Coggan

04-17-2008, 12:46 AM

WHAT INK?
Inking an engraving is a matter of preference, whatever works for you, some engravings need ink, some don't.
My work is mainly guns and I can only speek for myself. I've been inking and laquering guns for about twenty years.
I use black printing ink which is thick and a little gooey or artists oil paint.
What I do is fill a small bottle top with cellulose thinners, then add a very small amount of paint dryer but this is not absolutely necessary it just helps the drying.
I use an artists paint brush, hair not bristle. Just dip the tip of the brush into the thinners and then into the ink, a bit of practice will get you the right consistency and colour.
If you use just thinners, the residue can be wiped off in a few minutes, if you have added dryers don't leave it for too long otherwise the paint sets rock hard and is then difficult to remove.
An interesting effect can be produced by using different colours.
Red ink was added to the yellow gold birds on this gun. It is important to laquer after unless your using stainless etc.
Phil
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/WestleyRichards.jpg

Andrew Biggs

04-17-2008, 03:05 AM

Hi Phil

The red ink is certainly very effective around the gold. Thanks for that.

When you say laquer.......I'm presuming that you mean automotive laquer? sprayed on with an airbrush/airgun? and just enough to seal the finish?

Cheers
Andrew

PS_Bond

04-17-2008, 03:14 AM

I've used Ercalene on a couple of copper pieces before now; it's OK, but I'm not a huge fan of brushing it on.

Where's a good place to get printing ink in the UK please, Phil?

Phil Coggan

04-17-2008, 04:24 AM

Andrew,
Yes, automotive laquer, it used to be celelose but now it's acrylic.
I've used an airbrush but now I use it straight from the spray can, it takes a little practice to get the distance and coverage right without flooding the work.
Peter,
I don't know where you'd buy printing ink. A long time ago I called in to a printers and they gave me a can that they said was going off, it's lasted me all these years! I would'nt worry too much if you can't get any, artists oil colour is just as good.

Phil

Tim Wells

04-17-2008, 06:38 AM

I love the smooth lines of this gun. It seems nearly as much a work of art as the engraving. Lovely piece!

WHAT INK?
Inking an engraving is a matter of preference, whatever works for you, some engravings need ink, some don't.
My work is mainly guns and I can only speek for myself. I've been inking and laquering guns for about twenty years.
I use black printing ink which is thick and a little gooey or artists oil paint.
What I do is fill a small bottle top with cellulose thinners, then add a very small amount of paint dryer but this is not absolutely necessary it just helps the drying.
I use an artists paint brush, hair not bristle. Just dip the tip of the brush into the thinners and then into the ink, a bit of practice will get you the right consistency and colour.
If you use just thinners, the residue can be wiped off in a few minutes, if you have added dryers don't leave it for too long otherwise the paint sets rock hard and is then difficult to remove.
An interesting effect can be produced by using different colours.
Red ink was added to the yellow gold birds on this gun. It is important to laquer after unless your using stainless etc.
Phil
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/WestleyRichards.jpg

ron

04-17-2008, 10:30 AM

hi Phil .. your work is just fantastic and every chance I get to study it I do , I have a lot of books which have examples of your work in them , my question is , when are you going to publish your book , I will take the first copy . thanks for all of your help in the engraving field I do think this is great of a person as talented as your who is willing to share his methods of engraving and gold inlaying .. thanks ron p.

Phil Coggan

04-17-2008, 11:24 AM

Thanks Ron, my book?!! Mmmmm.......maybe one day :)

Phil

Phil Coggan

04-19-2008, 12:56 AM

ANOTHER PHOTOSHOP STEP by STEP.
This step by step is aimed at those not familier with PS. There are various ways of doing this, i’ve chosen a way that will be relatively easy.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics//13a.jpg
Presentation can be very important when showing photo’s of your work to potential customers.
Whatever your work, this is a step by step on how to make an ordinary photo look professional.
I’m using a picture of a knife I made in 1983 when I was just starting learning to engrave. As a matter of interest the blade is made from a leaf spring off a Ford Escort.

Import a picture into PS. Drag the right hand corner to enlarge the box the hold Ctrl + to enlarge the picture. Make sure the Layers and Paths are visible, if not, Window > Layer/Path.
In Layers drag the Background Layer to the icon next to the bin this will create a Background copy. Click the’Eye’ off the Locked Background layer.
Click the same icon again to make a New layer. Drag it so it is under the Background copy.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/1a.jpg
The next part CAN be done with the ‘Lasso’ tool, I only use it on small area’s because you have to put lots of nodes down to create a convincing curve which takes longer and sometimes when your near the end the nodes connect to somewhere you don’t want them to and you have to start from the beginning again.

In Paths click the icon next to the bin to create a new path.
Enlarge the image. Select the ‘Pen’ tool. If Pen + etc. is showing, right click and select Pen.
Put a Node down either side of a radius and work your way around, when you get back to the first node a little circle will appear, this shows that you have completed the circumference.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/2a.jpg
Select the ‘Add Anchor Point ‘ tool, the pen +
Add an anchor point between each of the nodes that you have previously done, either side of a curve.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/3a.jpg
If you now click on this and move it you will see that it is possible to get a perfect curve.
If the curve does’nt quite fit, grab the ‘antenna’ arms and pull/move them until the line fits. It might seem difficult at first but after some practice it becomes quite easy.
My next pictures are exaggerated to show what happens.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/4a.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/5a.jpg
Once you’ve got the line to fit snugly to the contour, ( you might have to re-adjust a few )
Click the ‘Load Path as a Selection’ icon (third from the left) in Paths. This will cause the marching ants effect.
Click ‘Select’ (top tool bar) and ‘Inverse’.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/7a.jpg
Zoom out so that you can see the whole picture. Ctrl –
In Layers select the top Background layer (make it blue)
Edit > Cut. This will cut out the knife from the background.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/8a.jpg
Now we’re going to colour the background. It can be one colour, or graded colours, paterns, or you could import another picture there.
I’m going to use a dark and a light purple gradient.
Click the big ‘Foreground colour’ square. Select your colour in the chart and Ok it.
Click the big ‘Background colour’ square. Select your colour in the chart and Ok it.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/9a.jpg
I going to create a diagonal gradient but you can create horizontal, vertical, any combination.
Select ‘Layer 1’ (make it blue)
If you want just the one colour, click the ‘Paint Bucket’ tool (sixth down on right hand side) if it’s not showing, right click it, and double click the picture background or Edit > Fill.
The background will be coloured by whatever colour is in the Foreground Colour square.

Select the ‘Gradient tool’ (sixth down) Draw a line vertical across the picture with the cursor.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/10a.jpg
The next step is to blend in the knife with the background.
Enlarge the picture. Select the ’Blur’ tool, (sixth down on the left)
You’ll need the bluring circle to be about as big as mine in the next picture.
If it’s not, click on ‘Brush’ (top tool bar) and adjust the slider.
The top tool bar should read 'Normal' and '100%.'
Select Background copy in Layers.
Run the circle along the edge of the knife, try and get half the circle on the knife and half on the background.
To get a realistic look, only blur the parts of the knife farthest away from you.
In the picture only a part of the handle has been blured.
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/11a.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/12a.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/14a.jpg
Have fun.
Phil

kcrutcher

04-19-2008, 08:38 AM

Phil

You don't know It but you are a book author now.

I have had lenses implants and have developed scar tissue (I have appointment to be fixed).

My eye site is so bad, for each post, I copy the text, kick the font up to about 16 points and make It bold then print It to be able to read It with .250 reading glasses.

Your post have such Beautiful Pictures, Text is so Interesting, Tutorials so Informative, I have printed the full posts, pictures and text on photo paper and made myself spiral bound book.

I will add photo as soon as I get more paper.

Thank You So Very Much for the Photoshop tutorials.

Kenneth Crutcher

Phil Coggan

04-19-2008, 09:00 AM

Glad to be of help Kenneth.

Rich Hambrook

04-19-2008, 05:28 PM

Mr. Coggan,
Please let me take this opportunity to say thank you so very much for joining us here on the Lindsay forum. You have in the past and present inspired so many people. I have studied your work quite a bit and it motivates and humbles me. I wish I had the opportunity to meet you and study under you. But until that happens I hope you stay with us here on this forum and educate us. I am going to carefully read this thread more and irritate you with a lot questions. Thank you again.
Rich

ron

04-19-2008, 07:09 PM

hi Phil .. I would like to double what Rich has said , I wish you lived close to me so I could look over your shoulder and learn more about the wonderful art of engraving .. there is only one other person as good as you and he is a friend of mine and that is Chris de Camillus . many thanks Phil ... ron p

Rich Hambrook

04-20-2008, 08:26 AM

Ron,
Is this the same Chris DeCamillis that I know. I didn't know because the spelling was different. If this is the same guy, you are correct, he is a fabulous engraver. I took his class a few years back. Now we need to have Mr. Coggan teach us using the Lindsay tools. :whoo: How awesome would that be. Mr. Coggan, please let us know when you are going to have a class here in the U.S. so I can start saving.
Rich

ron

04-20-2008, 10:38 AM

hi Rich .. yes this is the same Chris , i don't always get his name spelled right .. and I agree with you on having Phil come to the states and give us some classes .. ron p

Phil Coggan

04-20-2008, 12:17 PM

hi Rich .. yes this is the same Chris , i don't always get his name spelled right .. and I agree with you on having Phil come to the states and give us some classes .. ron p
Maybe one day :)
Phil

Rich Hambrook

04-20-2008, 07:26 PM

Mr. Coggan,
That is fantastic. I will except the "Maybe someday" for now. I will keep working on you and Steve Lindsay. Maybe all of us here can beg hard enough to make this happen. I am getting excited already.:willy_nilly: How can we make this happen. :eek:
Rich

PS_Bond

04-21-2008, 05:31 AM

Peter,
I don't know where you'd buy printing ink. A long time ago I called in to a printers and they gave me a can that they said was going off, it's lasted me all these years! I would'nt worry too much if you can't get any, artists oil colour is just as good.

Cheers Phil - I've got some oils around somewhere...

Phil Coggan

04-23-2008, 01:21 AM

Peter,
You'll find that the thinners dries the oil paint very quickly, make sure you get the right consistency, and its possible if your very careful to add different colours to different parts of your work.
What are you going to ink up?

(Quote)
Mr. Coggan,
That is fantastic. I will except the "Maybe someday" for now. I will keep working on you and Steve Lindsay. Maybe all of us here can beg hard enough to make this happen. I am getting excited already. How can we make this happen.
Rich

Steve and I are working on that double act, but we can't decide who's going to be the straight man! :)

Phil

JayCanale

04-23-2008, 06:16 AM

Phil,

I am new to the engraving world and will be starting my first class in another 5 days. Your work blows my mind! Fantastic! And you say it's 'scratching' ? ha ha I hope my scratches come out 1/4 good as yours!

Thanks for sharing,
Jay

Phil Coggan

04-23-2008, 08:12 AM

Jay,
The trick is to have a really sharp nail pushed into an old piece of broom handle.:lol: :lol: :lol:
Phil

Rich Hambrook

04-23-2008, 05:26 PM

Is holding the mouth right important as well?:lol: If it is, Phil can you take a close up portrait of yourself?
Rich

Steve Lindsay

04-24-2008, 09:09 AM

You know that the secret to engraving is holding your tongue just right. You can tell this boy is going to be a very good engraver. :lol:
http://www.joypeppers.com/Quickstart/ImageLib/boy_cheeks.JPG

Phil Coggan

04-24-2008, 09:54 AM

:iagree:

Phil Coggan

04-25-2008, 03:55 AM

Some more pics for those that are interested, No. 2 & 3 were engraved round about the 80's.

Phil
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/5xx-1.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/6xx.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/7xx.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/Greenertop-1.jpg
http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/GreenerBottom.jpg

kcrutcher

04-25-2008, 05:05 PM

Phil

When I log on to the forum this is the first place I look.

The pictures are beautiful and I am certainly interested.

I hope I am not being to presumptuous, do you mind a few questions.

In the scene where two lions are fighting?

How is the metal finished to preclude rusting?

After you have scratched the scene (your words) do I understand you to say you put Ink/Paint in the scratches.

And lastly are they really scratches, cuts or punch marks or all three?

Thank you very much I really do enjoy your posts.

Kenneth Crutcher

GaryW

04-25-2008, 06:06 PM

Phil; I have been away from the forum for quite some time, something to do with paying the bills. I have missed so much. There is nothing I can add to what's already been said about your work except I could sit for hours and admire it in close detail. I am primarily a jeweler by trade, and a decent commercial engraver as well so I really didn't have much to offer you in the way of advice till now, but a few posts back you asked about refining methods. This is my area. I started refining my own scrap in the late 70's. True, most commercial refiners use the acid or cyanide method, there is an alternate method that is safe and relatively inexpensive. Using a salt bath and electrolysis you can recover three 9's fine from up to a kilo of scrap. the only thing is you won't be able to recover the alloy. The system works with minimal user attention so it won't disrupt your work schedule, and doesn't give off any toxic fumes. I've listed the website of the company that makes the kit. Also if you contact a refiner such as Hoover & Strong here in the states, they have many alloys for just about any application. They even have a peach color alloy ( could be interesting for inlays) Anyway, I hope this helps, and if I could be of any further assistance, my e-mail is perkinsgaryw@embarqmail.com contact me any time.
Keep up the posting, it's very inspiring
Thanks, Gary

http://www.ishor.com/refining.htm

ron

04-25-2008, 07:48 PM

hi Phil .. the 2 ducks look very striking , they look like they are ready to jump off of the action ,, did you carve them from 1 piece of gold sheet or are the 2 separate pieces .. thanks again for posting your photos , and again when is your book coming out ..:) :) :) ron p

Phil Coggan

04-26-2008, 01:00 AM

Ken,
The gun with the lions fighting is still in the white, when the engraving is finished it goes back to the makers who then send it for colour hardening, it then comes back to me to polish this off, ink up and then laquering, this is what protects the steel.
The game scene is all 'cut' I don't really scratch or punch anything.

Gary,
Thanks for that good information, my real interest at the moment is alloying gold to produce different colours, i'll chat with you later.

Ron,
The ducks can be inlayed as one, or as two items, it depends on what space you have on a sheet to cut down on the wastage.

Thanks all for your interest.

Phil

Rich Hambrook

04-27-2008, 04:39 PM

Phil,
I too have a million questions. What are all the precious metals you are using in the multi colored inlays. I believe I can pick most of them out and have inlayed most of them myself.....but some of them are (for a lack of better words) a bitch to set. What is your trick. I cringe whenever I have to inlay stuff like rose, yellow or any harder colored metal. I will save most of my other questions for when I take your class.:smilielol5: Is this class going to be just one week? I am sure there are a bunch of us that need to make plans!:yesnod:
Thank you so much for the information and inspiration!
Rich

Phil Coggan

04-28-2008, 12:10 AM

Rich,
I have an answer for one of those million questions, inlaying red gold, i'm sure I went in to it on this forum but you'll have to search back a few pages!

Phil

Danny C

04-28-2008, 10:49 AM

Have to add my 2 cents.
You bring a wealth of talent to this forum. Here we see AND share. Many want to be seen only. You want to do both - that is rare.

I really like your use of amount and "volumn" of scroll and scene and the use of negative space. When done right it is really RIGHT! You do it exceptionally well. Course, I really like that type of engraving, not filling the space but not too empty either. And the colors and background black really set it all off.

Masterfully done.

VOLUMN - can't think of a better word. Its the size of the actual scroll work and associated detail that defines it.

Phil Coggan

04-29-2008, 01:43 PM

Thanks Danny,
You know when you design scrollwork the blank areas are equally as important as the engraved ones, it's like drawing a tree, the patterns of the empty areas between the branches should enhance the overall picture.
The trick is to get the right balance.

Phil

ron

04-29-2008, 06:55 PM

hi Phil .. do you ever use copper for your inlays and if so how do you get the gun parts re blued , i was told that a gun smith cannot re blue a gun that has copper inlays ,i would like to try some of it on the colts that i engraver and gold inlay .. ron p

Phil Coggan

04-30-2008, 12:49 AM

Ron,
Copper is not a problem, as you know it's a lot softer than red and you can fill small areas in with wire.
The only thing you have to be carefull with is, after hardening, it's usually bright but sometimes it has some oxyidation, it's easily removed but if the gun is coloured it can be a bit tricky.
You also have to de-grease the gun before laquering, I usually wash it over with thinners or acitone.

Phil

ron

04-30-2008, 06:38 AM

hi Phil , thanks for your reply , I think the next Colt I do I will add some copper and silver to the scroll .. Ron p

Rich Hambrook

04-30-2008, 03:33 PM

Phil,
Thank you for your response. I haven't had a chance to really dig deep and read this thread in its entirety as I plan to do so in the near future. I am sure you understand how busy life gets. I just wanted to back up what Danny said earlier about how fantastic it is to have magnificent people like yourself communicating and educating with us here on this forum. I have been told that in the past Masters like yourself didn't readily share their knowledge. That has changed significantly because of people like yourself. This is why the beautiful art of hand engraving has taken leaps and bounds recently. Not only from a overall talent aspect but community awareness as well. When can we expect to see your son Simon chime in on this thread. He is unbelievably great as well. I guess the saying "The apple doesn't fall far from the tree" is true. He and I have something in common......we were born in the same year. It's not much in common but its a start.:lol:
Thanks again Mr. Coggan
Rich Hambrook

Phil Coggan

05-07-2008, 08:18 AM

Phil,
That has changed significantly because of people like yourself. This is why the beautiful art of hand engraving has taken leaps and bounds recently. Not only from a overall talent aspect but community awareness as well. When can we expect to see your son Simon chime in on this thread. Rich Hambrook
Engraving has really taken off in the USA, but as far as I know, not in the UK, also with forums etc. I don't know how many engravers there are here, I only speak to two!

I don't think Simon will be 'chiming in, it's not his bag.

Phil

lylekelley3

05-07-2008, 08:58 AM

Mr Coggan - your engraving is wonderful. The detail on the muscles and feathers is incredible. I was wondering, do you do any of the wood carving? or does someone else take care of that on the guns you engrave? Just wondering, how much of the artistic skill translates to the different mediums.

Thanks again for showing your work!

Lyle

Phil Coggan

05-07-2008, 10:01 AM

Lyle,
The guns I engrave do not have any of the wood carved, having said that I have carved wood in the past, but not on guns, and at one time I did quite a lot of oil painting, landscapes and portraits.

Phil

Danny C

05-07-2008, 12:46 PM

I think you ought to change your company name to MASTER SCRATCHER!

I've looked here many times - and each time it is amazing!

You are definetly one of the best around.

Phil Coggan

05-08-2008, 12:51 AM

One for you Danny :)

Gene Tru

05-08-2008, 07:49 AM

This is absolutely beautiful Phil,
I've only experimented with silver wire inlay onto a steel plate. (not good contrast I know), but what seems so amazing to me is the amount of inlay on a gun such as this. There is more gold than gun metal showing. Inlays range from wide, such as in the birds, to very thin such as in the tiny scrolls and leaves. Then, if that isn't enough, a lot of it seems to be sculptured.
Truely a piece of art,
Gene

Dave London

05-08-2008, 06:57 PM

Phil
I am Speechless, Fantastic. Thanks for showing:whoo:

Danny C

05-09-2008, 10:48 AM

Just amazing!
Thanks for the "special" pic.

Its a perfect mix - not all of one kind of engraving style.

jjdon

04-03-2009, 04:37 PM

I'll add first that Phil's work is incredible!!

As far as "refining" gold, I could elaborate on that. I suspect that Phil doesn't really want to refine gold at all, he wants to do custom alloys and the like (I suspect). Refining is recovering gold from ore, scrap or sweeps - I don't do that either. What I do is recycle my gold and alloy my own, which is easy. I work over a clean newspaper and save every little bit and clean up between each change in metal. Then I just melt it down and re-use it - I keep it meticulously clean and run a magnet through it every time. Here: http://www.artjewelrymag.com/ART/Default.aspx?c=a&id=1036 is a handy calculator for how much metal to use for alloying up or down (it does NOT matter if it's white or yellow, like they say). That's easy, too.
All that is easy, though it's expensive to experiment with gold alloys. The hard part is what to do next - you have a lump of gold and you need sheet, wire or what-have-you. In a real shop that would mean a rolling mill and drawplates (and a knowlege of those and annealing, too). The old fashioned way is hammer, anvil and elbow grease. I've done that, it's not so bad once or twice. You can get a gold coin and melt it with copper, which gives you a lump of rose or red gold. The thing is, what do you do with that? If one has a shop like that, it's easy, if one doesn't it's not so simple.
Again, great work and great thread, too.