Watch engravings

[Steve Lindsay]

Received word that this gold Rolex that I engraved several years ago is for sale by the collector. Let me know if you or you know of someone that may be interested in it. It is in mint condition.

Steve

http://www.handgravers.com/images/Rolex-Lindsay2.jpg

[Ray Cover]

Wow :drool5:

[Tim Wells]

That just makes me sick! Heck yes I'm interested in it but I doubt he'd trade for anything I have...:lol:

[Peter]

WOW...is right!

[Rainer]

Simply awesome... :willy_nilly:
Rainer

[Scott H]

I would like to see that being engraved just stunning

[Steve Lindsay]

Thank you guys.
Scott, I didn't video the engraving of the Rolex. I do have a video that I'll upload when I get a chance of the engraving of numbers on the dial on a Gene Clark watch. Below is a completed pic of it. The dials I cut for Gene were silver. He did some method of oxide treatment to the silver after the engraving was completed to turn the silver flat white.
http://www.airgraver.com/images/Clark-Lindsay2b.jpg

[Scott H]

thank you that would be great.

[thinair33]

Steve,

How do you prepare a design for such a project. Do you scan the item and blow up the image to design and then it prints to fit?

By the way, looks really cool.

[Steve Lindsay]

Scott, I still haven't done anything with that video. The files are big! I'll get to it yet though. :)

Hi James,

The scroll around the outside areas of the Rolex was drawn right on the watch. I pat on beeswax & tallow with my finger and then draw through it with a sharpened wood toothpick. It leaves a polished line. I'll then very lightly scratch the design with a carbide scribe under the scope. When happy with a portion of the scroll I'll cut it and then pat on more tallow and draw more. Some of the scroll on this is symmetrical so I would have mirrored it with an ink print for that.

I don't remember for sure but for the border around the crystal I probably made an ink print of the shape, blew it up and drew design oor a portion of it on paper and then transferred that section. Once one section was done I could make prints and transfer it to the remaining sections.

I didn't try to lay out directly on the dials which I engraved for Gene Clark. Instead I measured the diameters of the dial to be engraved and drew this out with the numerals in AutoCAD. Once the layout was completed in I used autolisp (http://www.lindsayengraving.com/other_interests/gcode/index.html) to create a tool path. I have a little maxnc mill that I beefed up and made a very small spring loaded carbide scribe that I use in the spindle. I don't actually turn the spindle on with the scribe but only use it for scratching. I then scratched the layout with the machine on a polished scrap plate. Once scratched, I could make an ink pull from the plate and transfer it to the dial. The numerals were then ready to be engraved under the scope.

I found the plates tonight. Here are pics and also a screen shot of two of the layouts in autocad.

http://www.lindsayengraving.com/images/watch01_medium.jpg

http://www.lindsayengraving.com/images/clark-watch.jpg

http://www.lindsayengraving.com/images/clark-watch2.jpg


http://www.lindsayengraving.com/images/clarkplate02.jpg

http://www.lindsayengraving.com/images/clarkplate01.jpg

http://www.airgraver.com/images/Clark-Lindsay1b.jpg

http://www.airgraver.com/images/Clark-Lindsay2b.jpg

[thinair33]

Wow, that is an amazing amount of prep. My wife was impressed by the numerals on the dial.

How did you develop your scroll? I like it because it seems balanced on the line and flows out of either side. Very well made leaf design. I am toying with a pretty flambouyant floral similar to Nimschke's. I do like your examples and a few others on the forum because of how well everyone uses them. I am amazed at how well balanced they all seems. I want to feel comfortable in this layout before cutting anything.

I plan to purchase a classic setup on CO2 with a tungsten piston and also the sharpening system. I am currently shopping for a vise but probably will get one from Mr. Letourneau. I have spoken to him on the phone already.

I have 10 practice plates, Magic Transfer (arrived today), and have been sketching like a mad man. So it won't be long.

Thanks
James

[Steve Lindsay]

Thanks James, Okay, that is great about the classic with CO2 and tungsten piston!
There is a thread about the development and evolution of the scroll. I'll try to find it...
Okay, found it: http://www.engravingforum.com/showthread.php?t=268

Thanks again, Steve

[Peter]

That is a great thread showing the scroll development. I hadn't seen it previously.

I have a question Steve: Were you into drawing from a young age or did you develop those skills to engrave?

Thanks,
Peter

[thinair33]

Steve,

Did you progression of the scroll design INCLUDE your shading technique or did that come about later?

I have another question too. What is a good inlay practice metal?

James

[Steve Lindsay]

Peter, I started drawing (trying to draw) scroll in high school. I drew scroll all over my school notebooks.

James, The shading came shortly after college around 1981. I engraved a practice plate for Buster Warenski then that was almost too tiny of shading but in that style. My father shot photos through a microscope of it back then that I find and post later.

[thinair33]

Steve,

I am mesmerized by the shading in your scroll. I have to say it looks close to 3D. Do you plan this into your design? Is this mostly done in vectoring your drawing? I can see that it would be easier blown up in a program than trying to sketch it.
I will post my recent sketch in progress. I am attempting a few design changes to see how easy I can change.

James

[Phil Coggan]

Steve, your designs are wonderful, unique, shading, exceptional, and the Rolex is'nt bad either! :whoo:

Phil

[Steve Lindsay]

Thank you Phil! :) :) :)

Hi James, I don't try and draw the shading but just plan each leaf right before shading it. Here is a link to a bunch of videos on youtube. In some of the videos I am shading leaves and deciding what to do while cutting them. http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=1birdflu&p=r


Steve

[Gene Tru]

Steve,
Really a beautiful job on the watches. Referring mainly to the gold Rolex case, when working on something as small and detailed as this, what angle do you use on your graver? Also, do you have to grind the tip down to a really small size to be able to view your cutting lines easier? It seems like a regular sized graver would cover up most of what is to be cut. I have experimented with a couple of my gravers trying to get them to a small profile at the tip, but still don't see how you are able to do such fine cutting. I'm sure a scope would help.
Gene

[Phil Coggan]

I have experimented with a couple of my gravers trying to get them to a small profile at the tip, but still don't see how you are able to do such fine cutting. I'm sure a scope would help.
Gene
Gene,
A scope is not the magical answer, it is possible to produce very fine lines with a 10x hand loupe, it's all down to you.

Steve,
Excellent Youtube tutorial.

Phil

[Gene Tru]

Phil,
Seeing the beautiful work that you have done on the rifles posted earlier on your thread and knowing that you did all that without a scope I know that it can be done without a scope (am in total awe). My situation is that I'm not a young buck any longer and my eyesight is not one of my strong points. For this reason I feel that if it's going to happen for me, I'm going to have to help it along as much as possible now. How I wish I had eaten more carrots in my younger years.
I would give anything to be able to come watch you work, but will have to settle for your excellent postings for now.Thanks,
Gene

[Phil Coggan]

Gene,
I don't think most of us are young bucks anymore :)
I understand what you're saying about your eyesight, have you tried a hand held loupe? you see to me, magnifying is magnifying whether it be through a loupe or scope.
You have to get used to looking through a loupe. Sometimes I give visitors a loupe to view my engraving, some have no problem but others are useless.

Phil

[Steve Lindsay]

Steve,
Really a beautiful job on the watches. Referring mainly to the gold Rolex case, when working on something
as small and detailed as this, what angle do you use on your graver? Also, do you have to grind the tip
down to a really small size to be able to view your cutting lines easier? It seems like a regular sized graver
would cover up most of what is to be cut. I have experimented with a couple of my gravers trying to get
them to a small profile at the tip, but still don't see how you are able to do such fine cutting. I'm sure a
scope would help.
Gene
When I started I ground my graver tips small but through time I became lazy and after a lot of
resharpenings the gravers became short in length and fat on the face. I believe I have gotten used to
them short and fat. I'm only looking at the tip and what is in front of the tip. When using my graver
sharpener grind those top three facets on top of the graver. They are what will taper the graver down
small. We can grind it all the way down to a tiny face if desired.

I hunted on the harddrive for some close-up pics that would show shading.
The last one is almost to big to be posting, but you should be able to scroll
around on the screen and see it.

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/other01%20copya1x1.jpg

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/2nd_lindaylinday_copyb.jpg

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/Lindsay-Lindsay5close.jpg

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/lindsay-lindsay12a_copy.jpg

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/busfield001c.jpg

http://www.engravingschool.com/forum-pics/lindsayoneb2.jpg

http://www.lindsayengraving.com/busfield/photos/busfield08%20copya1x1.jpg

http://www.lindsayengraving.com/images/herman-composite.jpg

[Danny C]

I think an optivisor with lights would work also. I think that most would like both eys working not just one, as with a loop.

Here is my setup - works pretty good.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p133/DannyC2/HeadLights.jpg

[Big-Un]

Danny, please explain what you used, where you got it and how you put it together to make such a great lighting source. I need to try and set my optivisor up this way. Maybe it will be good enough I won't need to go and buy a lot of bigger lights to hang over my bench.

[SVD]

I can't see Danny's picture from here behind the Firewall of Idiocy (darn it!) but the OptiVisor folks make a set of lights for the visors.

I occasionally use my own variation: go to the Home Depot type store and look around. There are some small lights that you can clip on to your hat brim or safety glasses. Put one on each side of the OptiVisor and you've got a little more light right where you need it.

I got a pair of the loupes they make for the OptiVisors but unfortunately they don't line up to let me use them as a stereo add-on. Fortunately I've got two OptiVisors (#5 & #10) so I just put one on each visor. I flip it over when I need to get a bit closer for a particular bit.

Steve

I was thinking that experience could make up for clearer vision. Just like all that fine engraving from before they had optics - it may take a lot of practice but eventually you'll have a pretty good feel for where the actual point is at (and going).

[WVEngraver]

This thread is absolutely mind boggling.

[Gene Tru]

Steve,

Thanks for posting those really nice close ups of your knives. Your leaf and overall designs are superb. It really helps a lot to be able to study design and shading up close like this. In knife (img.) #5 and #6 down from top, did you inlay a larger piece of gold sheet then cut your design and remove bg from that?

Thanks, Gene

[SVD]

I've got the same question regarding the next knife down (#7 from the top).

BTW, anyone else notice the incredibly tiny, yet precise signatures on these knives? The one on #7 caught my eye when I was looking at the hairline inlayed border.

[Steve Lindsay]

Steve,

Thanks for posting those really nice close ups of your knives. Your leaf and overall designs are superb. It really helps a lot to be able to study design and shading up close like this. In knife (img.) #5 and #6 down from top, did you inlay a larger piece of gold sheet then cut your design and remove bg from that?

Thanks, Gene
Hi Gene,
I cut and pierced the gold design out of sheet with a jewelers saw and inlayed it into under cut pockets in the same shape. Cut outlines of the design first and prepare the pockets, then take an ink print of this and transfer it to gold sheet to cut and pierce it out.
Steve


A few other watch projects:
http://lindsayengraving.com/images/watch03-2.jpg
http://lindsayengraving.com/images/movement.jpg
http://lindsayengraving.com/images/watch-case-close-up.jpg
http://lindsayengraving.com/images/publications/horological%20times%20cover%20jan%2019991x1.jpg

[SVD]

That's a handy little trick!

Don't know if I'll ever be good enough to use it, but I'm definitely storing it away just in case.

[Danny C]

Concerning the Optivisor Lights - they are ready made. Buy online. Do a search for optivisor lights.

2 kinds. One set like mine and another has a single spotlight in the middle (adjustable).

Wire runs to the batteries on the side of the optivisor. Can't tell its there. The magnifier hold on pins are removed and longer ones put on to hold it all in place.

When I got my PC Steve sent me an example of his engraving. They are the same as the wood PC handle "metal insert" on the top. I can just barely make out all the details with my #7 Opti! They are really something to look at (and I do). Such a delicate touch.