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View Full Version : Where to buy gravers


take-down
08-28-2009, 05:01 AM
Had a bit of a play today it was raining cats & dogs so wasn't able to get out on site to weld
found abit of 3/16 tool steel and sharpened it a bit like Steve recomends
1st try I think I was holding my hand to high cause the point dug in and the hand just wanted to do sumersalts all over the ali plate
Got the hand at the right angle and to be honest what a buzz to feel it cut and watch the chip curl up in front. I think I want more
Problem the smallest tool steel I can get here in NZ is 3/16, I had a look on ebay and found this site
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360176980059&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Has anybody delt with them.
Feed back would be great, Thanks in advance
Graham

Kevin
08-28-2009, 07:19 AM
Take down, I have recently bought graver handles with collets from this dealer, "Finding King". I doubt you will have a problem with them. But I would not advise these gravers at this price for two reasons. Later when you buy a sharpening fixture or especially a Lindsay template, I believe the gravers should be very close to 3/32" for repeatabilty when resharpening so you are resharpening at the same plane as before. Also this size is a little or borderline small and can "flex" when using if too much pressure is applied which is easy to do when starting out or trying to make deep cuts. "Flex" ="slip". At this price you are better off buying from Lindsay. If you want to go cheap look for assortments of used watchmaker or engravers gravers on Ebay etc. The old ones are all over the place size wise so you will probably have trouble using a Lindsay fixture. Old small files are very good to make gravers out of. Has the right temper- hardness. I bought the graver handles with collets for using these odd size gravers and am very happy with them, and going to buy 6 more. 6 for $13.03 with free USA shipping. They are not impressive to look at but work very well after cutting the plastic handle to make a flat spot and putting a piece of wood dowel inside the handle so the graver end has something to lock in to keep it from moving causing flex-slip. Also these handles are long, so you can use short gravers, and with somewhat undersize gravers there is less chance of "flex". Hope this was helpful. Kevin Scott

SVD
08-28-2009, 07:52 AM
As to buying gravers I think your best bet is to go with one of the two companies that make the gear. Steve has some nice choices and his template based system lets you make your own flats or knife gravers.

Some ways to save money include using 3/16" carbide drill rod (heard about but haven't tried) and making several gravers out of each blank which I have done.

Get some 3/32" square brass tube and some 1/8" square. How long a bit of actual graver you need depends on the type of point but mostly you only need about 1/2". Use a short bit of the 1/8" tubing to join the graver bit to a piece of the 3/32" to get the overall length you want. Some folks silver solder (stand the piece on end in water, graver bit down to preserve the temper). I just use a punch to dent the 1/8" square brass and use some Gorilla Glue. There's not a lot of stress trying to take it apart. In use you're pressing it together so it just needs to not fall out when not in use.

Note: Make sure you can get the 'blank' in the sharpening fixture. The back end of the 1/8" can't be too far from the point or it won't work.

Edited to add: This is just how I implement John B's clever little gravers idea.

take-down
08-28-2009, 04:09 PM
Thanks gentelmen
I'll email Steve & get a costing off him
Cheers Graham

Bill Cote
01-03-2010, 03:23 PM
Hi everyone, I'm fairly new to engraving. I've done some bead setting and jewlry related stuff, but nothing to brag about yet. Hopefully someday though. I've had three carpal tunnel surgeries so that slowed me down some. take care and thanks for the site. Bill Cote