Introduction and first question

[Randy]

Hi everyone. I'm Randy Hayes from North Carolina. I began hand engraving with unassisted tools in 1997, and after a few years of cutting monograms and lettering on jewelry and knick knacks I quit. I was using a worn out oilstone and sharpening fixture that I purchased from an old fellow that was long retired from engraving (along with most of the rest of my equipment), and my sharpening was so random and uneducated and gravers no properly tempered, that I was under too much stress at any given time from all the dulling and slipping. Recently, I was able to afford some new equipment, so I'm going to pick up where I left off -- monograms and lettering, but with an eye toward artful design work and whatever is more creative and more lucrative.
I am using other tools. I hope that doesn't automatically exclude me from conversation here because I have so many questions as I begin again. I also hope that the "basics" nature of my questions doesn't exclude me, but I understand if that is the case.
That said, my first job was block lettering on a baby cup. The catch was trying to match the lettering previously done on the cup in 1926. The artist used a liner for the straight cuts, but then added serifs with a pick technique -- not just to square off the ends, but to add the "triangle." I was using a 90 degree square graver for the picks, and they just didn't seem to carry all the way across the ends of the liner cuts like the old engraving. Should I have tried a 120? Or a flat at an angle?
Thanks in advance, and if I am welcomed to bring this caliber of question here, I will continue to do so.

[Brian]

Hi Randy,

Far as I know... you are welcome here! This forum was designed for the owners of the Lindsay tools - but ALL engraving questions are answered - providing, of course, that someone has the answer - and the time...

In answer to your question: We do that triangular cut you are describing with either a 90 degree or a flat graver. It just kinda depends on which one happens to be handy. (Meaning in the handpiece) Result is the same.

You just start your cut with with the flat graver up on it's corner and roll it a bit. If you are using the 90 degree it's the same motion.

With either graver, when you reach the width you require - you stop the roll and snap up and out of the metal.

Yes, I know it sounds much simpler than it is when you are just starting out. Practice making the little triangles over and over on a piece of scrap copper.

You can make a nice border treatment with a row of these triangles all going one way and then cutting another in reverse that fits right up against it.

Rereading that doesn't make much sense... I'll have to make an image and post it later on this evening.

Meanwhile, if you haven't already - go and read about the Lindsay grind - it'll make your work much easier.

Brian P. Marshall
Stockton Jewelry Arts School
Stockton, CA USA
209-477-0550
instructor@jewelryartschool.com
www.jewelryartschool.com